A little about CB radios, transceivers, antennas, technical specifications, communication range

You have probably noticed that some drivers carry very long mobile whip antennas with a thick base coil on their car roofs. You may well have wondered why anyone needs such a long mast that makes it hard to enter a garage or use an automatic car wash. You certainly know that an antenna like this is not required for listening to FM radio.

You are right.

These drivers are not listening to broadcast FM stations with those antennas. They are using two-way radios in the CB (Citizens Band, 27 MHz) range, installed in their friends’ vehicles as well. They also transmit on the air themselves. Not because they lack mobile phones, but because CB operation brings its own enjoyment, practical benefits, and savings.

A CB-band transceiver is extremely convenient for group trips in several cars: you can chat en route, warn (or be warned) in time about issues ahead, avoid constantly checking mirrors to see where your companion went, and so on.

Crucially, CB radio is self-contained—it requires no supporting network—so you remain in contact even when all cell phones have lost the last base station. Even better, the enjoyment is completely free: talk as much as you like, provided your battery is charged.

In short, the advantages are numerous.

Let us discuss what the basic kit consists of, what types of CB sets exist, and how to use them. I will hardly cite specific models—first, I am not familiar with all of them and have not worked with many; second, any competent seller will better brief you on model-specific nuances.

The core of the system is the CB transceiver itself. It can be stationary (mobile/desktop) or handheld (portable).

The first group subdivides into desktop bases and mobile (in-vehicle) units. Desktop bases are highly featured and excellent performers, but their functionality is excessive for in-car use. Mobiles are simpler, and the real choice is typically between them and handheld units.

Advantages of mobile/stationary in-vehicle units:
- Convenient front-panel controls allow near “blind” operation with one hand while keeping eyes on the road and the other hand on the wheel.
- Power is a non-issue—wire it once to the vehicle’s electrical system and forget it.
- Cables are routed under trim; no clutter in the cabin.
- The built-in speaker is typically louder.
- Usually more configuration options than handhelds.

Disadvantages of fixed in-vehicle units:
- Their very “fixed” nature. Step two meters away from the car and you are out of contact.
- You must think about theft prevention—this is a large, attractive device that can be resold.
- You will likely need to obtain a license/permit. In Moscow this is often ignored, but in many regions permits are checked routinely.

The pros and cons of handhelds are the inverse of those above. In addition, you can buy a special adapter to power the handheld from the cigarette lighter and connect it to a larger roof-mounted antenna.

You can also connect a headset (earpiece and microphone) to a handheld to operate hands-free. Stationary/mobile units usually do not support such headsets.

Which to choose is your decision. My advice: if finances allow, buy both. Install the mobile in the car and keep a handheld in the glovebox—for trips with someone who has no radio, or when you need comms outside the vehicle.

Frankly bad radios are rarely produced today. Of the brands, I can safely recommend Alan—reliable, easy to operate, and rarely failing. I have heard of failures but never observed them. Yosan and Dragon are also decent, though some units may have defective microphones—an easy and inexpensive fix.

When buying a mobile unit, consider its physical size. Not every model fits under a Niva’s center console. For example, the Alan-78 fits easily, while the Alan-48plus does not. That is not fatal—the 48+ can be mounted left under the dash—but it will be less convenient for the passenger to operate.
Extra features are welcome, but should not drive your decision. It is nice if the unit can display vehicle bus voltage or monitor two channels simultaneously; and support for SSB mode (single-sideband) is excellent—but none of this is essential for dependable communications.

One more nuance: some mobile units are 24-volt versions. Decline those offers, however cheap. They are intended for long-haul trucks (24 V electrical systems) and are impractical in passenger cars. A solution would be a DC converter or an inverter. As to powering the radio: best practice is a direct connection to the battery. Other methods should be avoided.

If you opt for a handheld, immediately buy a car power adapter and a spare battery. Both will prove useful repeatedly.

Also check rated output power. Mobile units often come in 2, 4, 8, or 10 W variants. Ignore 2 W; choose 4 W or higher. However, be aware that the regulator typically licenses up to only 4 W; thus, declare 4 W in applications without advertising the actual transmitter power into the antenna line.

Another point: for reasons unknown, Alan radios have channel grid indexing shifted by one position (grids are groups of 40 frequency channels labeled A–J). If someone proposes channel 5C, on an Alan you should set 5D. Neither a pro nor a con—just remember it. This matters when setting the radio to the truckers’ working channel (15 C, AM).

Another tip: avoid buying a Russian-made radio as your primary set. They tend to be less stable, offer fewer channels, and are inconvenient in use. As a secondary set, a budget handheld is fine—but do not rely on it for critical comms.

How many channels do you need? 40–80 is usually enough. If you want abundance, buy the 400-channel Alan-48plus; you will not use them all, but you will have more free channels to choose from.

Note that channel grids are divided into “European” and “Russian.” Forget the Russian grids—almost nobody uses them and they will not help you. No one in their right mind will invite you to chat there.

After purchase, do not forget to visit the State Communications Inspectorate to register your set. It is quick and inexpensive and will save you trouble. In Moscow the office is at 21 Suschevskaya St., entrance 2, floor 2. Phone 258-80-52. Hours: Mon–Thu 10:00–17:00. The only inconvenience is that payment is by postal order, which requires a trip to the post office. About a week after filing, you must return to pick up the permit. Each visit takes ~20 minutes; no radio documents are required—only your passport.

Now to the next component: the antenna.

If you chose a handheld, this may be moot: the so-called “rat tail” (rubber duck) is bundled. However, do not expect miracle range. As the saying goes, you can never have too much antenna.

Therefore, if you have a mobile unit—or want better performance from a handheld—your next purchase is a proper antenna.

The choice is vast. I will not list models. The core selection criteria are length, build quality, and mounting method. Length: exclude antennas shorter than 1.5 m from consideration. Choose a 1.5 m model only if you can justify why you cannot install a longer one.

Practical range starts from ~170 cm overall length. Even better is a 2 m whip. There are many worthy options—the choice is yours.

Mounting methods are two: through-hole (permanent) and magnetic base. Magnetic mounts are safer and more practical; they are easier to place at the roof center and yield an excellent, near-omnidirectional radiation pattern. However, frequent mounting/removal may abrade roof paint. Use a soft cloth between the base and the roof. Contrary to popular myth, do not add an extra ground strap to a magnetic mount—the design relies on capacitive coupling; forcing a ground can degrade performance severely.

Driving forest roads raises the odds that a branch will strike your whip. By Murphy’s law, a falling antenna will scratch the roof and rip the feeder (the coax running from the radio to the antenna).

Through-hole (permanent) antennas are more robust. Two ways to mount: the radical one—drill the roof and mount at the center. Pros and cons are obvious. The gentler way—use a rain-gutter bracket and clamp the antenna there. This is the common approach.

Warning: avoid die-cast (silumin) brackets. They are less convenient to install, less reliable, tend to crack in frost, and sometimes loosen so much that both bracket and antenna fall off. Steel brackets are far more reliable: they hold the antenna well and stay put. Prefer steel.

Installers sometimes forget this—remind them: at the gutter where the clamp bolt bites, remove paint to bare metal. Only then will you get a solid ground. After tightening the bolt, coat the bare spot with cavity wax/antirust (e.g., movile). It will not rust.

The neatest way to route the feeder into the cabin is via the ventilation apertures in the rear pillar. The coax pulls through nicely and stays out of the way.

As an exotic option, note “Truck-class” twin-antenna setups—two relatively short whips (typically 120–150 cm) that still provide good range. Installers say they are finicky to tune, but the vehicle looks formidable.

Also consider whips without a plastic-housed loading coil. An example is the Magnum WA-27—very good but rare. It is all-metal, with nothing to break, and no coil housing to worry about in winter road chemicals.

Regarding build quality: I have seen poor antennas, so beware of ultra-cheap unknown brands. Flaws are not always obvious at first glance, but sloppy plastic around the coil housing, messy or absent packaging, and a whip of constant diameter (on good whips the base section is noticeably thicker than the tip) should make you cautious.

It is very helpful if the kit includes a hex key. You need it for tuning: it adjusts the whip length by sliding it into or out of the loading coil.

A few words on tuning.

One key parameter indicating how well the antenna is installed and matched to the radio is the SWR (standing wave ratio, i.e., VSWR). Roughly speaking, it reflects what fraction of transmitter power actually leaves for the ether. The SWR scale is logarithmic; approximate power reflected (loss) looks like: 0% > 1; 2% > 1.3; 3% > 1.5; 6% > 1.7; 11% > 2; 25% > 3; 38% > 4; 70% > 10. An excellent result is ~1.2; acceptable is 1.4–1.5; at SWR > 3 you risk damaging the radio.

SWR is measured with an SWR meter (forward/reflected power bridge). It is inexpensive (~$22) and very useful, especially if you like experimenting. Measure SWR only after both radio and antenna are fully installed in their intended places. Antenna placement on the body affects SWR just as much as whip length, so tuning a loose antenna off-vehicle is pointless.

Tuning procedure: insert the SWR meter between antenna and radio (or between antenna and amplifier). In all cases there must be no other devices in the RF path between the meter and the antenna. If you enjoy an airplane-cockpit dashboard, you can panel-mount the meter permanently.

With the meter connected, set the radio to the channel you will use most and key the transmitter. The meter will show how well you did. If SWR is unsatisfactory, use the hex key to loosen the whip in the coil and change its length slightly (2–3 mm). Measure again and note which direction improved SWR—lengthening or shortening. Continue in that direction until you hit the target.

After achieving the target SWR, tighten the set screw firmly and mark the whip’s position where it enters the coil (with nail polish or a small file nick). If the clamp ever loosens and the length shifts, you can quickly restore the correct position without the meter.

A small safety note: remove or fold down the antenna during thunderstorms. If you run with the whip along the rain gutter, wrap the tip with tape or put a cap on—it can easily injure an eye.

We are done with antennas; now to the third component cherished by many CB users: the RF power amplifier.

Its main task is to increase the RF power delivered to the antenna. Officially, the device is prohibited for general use, yet many buy, disguise, and use it when needed. Sellers are cautious and rarely stock “amplifiers,” but you will often see “antenna-matching units” that (surprise!) perform exactly the needed function.
Do not buy a simple “matcher” (antenna tuner) for in-car CB—true tuners are unnecessary in mobile installations. If you must talk in euphemisms with a seller: an RF amplifier has a power rating in watts, supply leads and a power switch, a heavy finned heat-sinked case, and a price from about $50.
A basic matcher costs ~10 USD, takes no power, comes in a thin metal box, and is intended for home base enthusiasts with huge rooftop antennas who cannot run up and down to re-tune SWR as weather changes. It can be used in a car in principle, but in the vast majority of cases it is unnecessary.

Back to amplifiers: they are truly helpful if you plan contacts at 10 km and beyond. You will not exceed ~35–40 km line-of-sight anyway (Earth is curved), but sometimes without an amp a contact is simply impossible. In Moscow, for example, it is hard to work with the Rescue Service without one; officially, however, higher power is allowed only for saving human life.

If you are talking at very short distances (50–100 m or less), it is better to turn the amplifier off—it will cause more harm than good (overload the other end).

Also: holding the whip with your hand while transmitting with an amplifier is a very bad idea—you can get a painful shock. And turn the amp off before roadside police checks; you might encounter a technically savvy officer and save yourself time and money.

Finally: an amp under 50 W is money wasted. 70–120 W is very good; 200 W is excellent. The price difference is not so great as to favor very low-power models.

Power the amplifier directly from the battery as well. Use multi-strand copper power leads 1.5–2 mm? (or thicker). Do not use SIP cable types—they have aluminum conductors. Mount the amp under the passenger shelf or behind plastic trim; in the latter case route the power toggle to the dashboard.

Unnecessary add-ons: the matcher (as noted) and the so-called DTMF adapter. The latter is like a “telephone line extender”—you put a second radio at home with extra hardware and get a “home number” in your car. The channel is unprotected; unauthorized users can connect quickly and you will pay for long calls to far-off places using equipment you bought yourself. The audio quality is poor. Better buy a mobile phone if you do not already have one.

And a few general notes:

If you lack electrical skills or time, have professionals install and tune the setup. Installation and tuning will cost about $30–40.

Under certain atmospheric conditions you may encounter “skip” propagation—hearing (and sometimes joining) conversations from very distant locations. I have heard German stations, Petrozavodsk, and even worked Khabarovsk without an amplifier.

Common working channels (all European grids):
Niva drivers — 5C FM.
Moscow Rescue Service — 19C FM.
Emergency call channel of the Moscow Rescue Service: 9C FM.
“Krik” service — 3C FM.
Long-haul truckers — 15C AM.

Many CB users are correspondents of the Moscow Rescue Service. To register and receive a callsign (and an ID card that often impresses traffic police), visit the MRS office and submit an application. It is a one-time process; you pay only for the ID card and, optionally, a windshield sticker. This service can be very helpful, so consider it.

And of course the traditional CB sign-off — 73 (seven-three, best regards).